Wednesday, January 2, 2013

Kaithala sevai& Nammalwar NachiyarThirukkolam



Kaithala sevai and Nammalwar mohini alangaram  7am thirunaal
We waited at the Thirumamani mandapam from 3.30pm to have darshan of Namperumal. After about 4hours of waiting we got treated to a sevai where Namperumnal dazzled as usual, in bright parrot green with red and purple border rettai pett, which he enhanced with His Rajaparvai, Rajanadai and Gambeeram. The Namperumal had on a Kasumalai and a red padakam, He was simply dressed, the reason being He gives all His jewels to Nammalwar to put on. As one lady explained it, all the worlds population is considered as sthrees…..ladies and Namperumal is the only Purusha…man. So Namperumal gives his jewels to his alwar ie..Nammalwar to wear,   to don the Alamkaram of Parangusa nayaki   in the Nayaki bavam. A few years back ,in the words of this lady ,  Namperumal didn’t wear any jewels at all on this day. He welcomes Nammalwar into HIS fold grandly. And at around 7.15 the Archakas carry Namperumal high up in their hands and show HIM all around. HE seems very approachable, soulabyan, reachable, attainable when  shown up like this.
Back home at 8.30 after a tiring evening.
8am thirunaal  Vedupari and Kopna vaiyyali
We present ourselves at the manal veli maidanam , about twice the size of football ground opposite Ramar sannidhi, and wait. After vettu (crackers) Namperumal arrives grandly  on HIS huge gold horse. HE is dressed in his riding costume, made of velvet, layers of different color velvet frocks, holding the horse in one hand and a sattai in the other wearing a full sleeve darkblue velvet shirt. HE has a cap made of velvet and pearls.
First the vaiyyali….HE covers the entire stretch of maidanam a couple of times in HIS majestic walk and goes back. Then to the crowd’s cheer the vayyali begins. HE moves in zigzag fashion, the huge gold horse coming in sideways towards the crowd going away, coming in at another end and going away. This excites the crowd further and they shout Ranga Ranga…..HE covers the entire manalveli this way.
After this we wait for the Vedupari.
A class of people called ‘MuthuRaja’ are given importance in this event. They are the kallars of Srirangam who helped Thirumangai mannan rob .The story goes thus:  Thieumangai mannan wanted to marry Kumudhavalli, who claimed that she’d marry him if he could feed 1000 people daily. To afford this tall claim Thirumangaimannan starts to steal and waylay people.
The Lord in his munificence, decides to take over now. ‘Thiruthi pani kolluthal’  is the way it is described.
The Perumal and HIS consort take the disguise of bride and groom fully bejeweled and walk with their escorts in the forest where they know Thirumangai mannan is waiting . Rightly Thirumangai mannan waylays them and steals everything ,their jewels ,brides dowry, her trousseau, everything. But Thirumangai mannan finds that  The groom wears one piece of jewellery in his toe that remains. Try as he might he is not able to take it off ,so he bites it and at that moment the Lord decides to give him enlightenment. Enlightened the Thirumangai Mannan sings in HIS praise and becomes Thirumangai Alwar. He sings “Vadinen vadi varunthinen …….Narayana Ennum Naaman”
So this scene is enacted  in the manalveli. The muthuraja, or the community of the kallar people come in  with sticks and two young boys are dressed as perumal and Thayar and brought with “sakala mariyadai”. First the Alwar comes in and goes around the Perumal twice and goes back .he comes in again with a change of dress  and goes very fast to perumal and takes away His kodais(umbrellas), velli(silver) vilakku,  Boxes full of jewels, some covered trays and trunks. All these are carried behind the alwar who goes away with his loot. He then later comes back corrected  and surrenders himself unto the Lord.
The two little boys belonging to the Muthuraja sect who impersonate Lord and thayar are then taken with koil mariyadhai umbrellas and a melam along the chithrai veedhis to their residence in melur road .
There are many CC TVs in the temple placed at strategic points….The daily sevas are covered very well by a local cable tv calld “Apple.”
The thirumamani mandapam is decorated with Thazhamboo thoranam, vazzha marams and the whole stretch has a shamiana get up decorated with white, green, red and pink cloth and it is beautifully lit with yellow bulbs.
At 12 am on 31st Dec/ 1st Jan there are around 100 devotees in the thirumamani mandapam, and as usual 70% of this is women. The Namperumal is today dressed in Dark bottle green with mustard border , simple clad in a kaasu malai, a fashionable chain with a half moon shaped diamond pendant and his Kousthubam his Abhayahastham is studded with rubies.
The arayars, 5 of them sing about 100 pasurams, the main abinaya pasuram being “Nedumar ku adimai” of Thirumangai azhwar. The youngest arayar wears a broad border veshti and the usual thoppi, and steps forward to do a small dance for God .The arayars sing and he does the abinaya for it, very gracefully with no other accompaniment other than the vocal support of arayars, he sings along too and often he gestures to the Namperumal meaning HE did this and that. After this is done he steps back and they continue their songs.
Today, New Year early hours, the Nammalwar wears the same  parrot green veshti with red and purple border that Namperumal wore the previous night alonghwith beautiful jewels.
The devotion with which Namperumal is cherished  has to be seen to be believed, the local crowd has been standing here for more than an hour after the arayar sevai waiting for the Haarathi and if possible theertham. Typically only the men without upper cloth (bare bodied) get theertham, sadari. We somehgow get a small helping of cooked rice (prasadam ) and happy that we started the year with Namperumal we head to the Karuvoolam to have darshan of the famous veenai ekantham. We are surprised to see about 20 of them already sitting there waiting….what can one say about Namperumal’s magic? It is just past  am and all these people are wide awake, asking one another about the best place to see HIM go to HIS ABODE. (padiyetram). Sitting on the steps we can see many sculptures standing on the pillars in different sizes all with folded hands but all of them look effeminate to me with a kondai to one side maybe indicating the Vijayanagar influence? The tall pillars have lions seated on them overlooking the corridor.
Around 1.45 am the Namperumal comes in with Single kottu and as we run to see him. We are pleasantly surprised to see HIM all covered in a Sky Blue Salla Thuni which is like       a net cloth. HIS turban is covered and so is HIS body all fully covered in this net cloth, looking enchanting in spite of HIS entire day’s activities.
The 5 artistes who play the veena walk in front of HIM facing HIM, holding their veena upright on their shoulders held by a belt ,and they play it like a sitar  . They sing few of Thirumangai Alwar’s pasurams and play the veena along. First one pasuram in the Nazhikettan vassal, then 1 just inside of it, then the next at the corner and  two more at the padiyetham. That day’s thiruppavai is played and sung to a different ragam. It is divine to hear a group of men play veena and sing along to pindrop silence at 1.45 midnight then the Padiyetham and Namperumal retires after a long day , and we bid HIM good night and Au Revoir and ofcourse a good “vidiyal” for all of us.
What a way to usher in 2013…to the accompaniment of Arayars singing the praises of Namperumal, with their hand held bells, making a delightfully pleasant sound, and Namperumal looking as endearing as ever in his elegant green.

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