A Day In Srirangam
The day begins at 4:15 am with Nadaswaram
followed by MLV’s beautiful rendering of Thiruppavai , broadcast from the
temple . As we live in Chithrai street, the music is loud and clear and
accompanies us as we go through the daily routine of cleaning the Vasal, doing
the kolam, and as we do this we can see
different groups of bajanai ghoshti passing by singing ,playing the dolak and
an harmonium. The feel is something one has to be here to understand. Sometimes
the gentle rhythmic tinkle of the elephant bells goes by , calling us out to
the street to just stare and see the pachyderms go by swinging.
Meanwhile the street rings with
the cycle bells of milk vendors who sell cow’s milk in cans. Then it is one
rush as we get ready to go into the temple to
have a darshan of Rangan Purappadu, during Pagal pathu. Back home it is
all relaxed as we start cooking for the day and believe me slow cooking is also
done in thirty minutes and then its daily chores. As we peep into the street
its empty of people except for a few school going children and a few mamis
walking slowly in their madisars.
Life slowly settles into a sort
of Malgudi pace as we have an early lunch and retire to rest for sometime! The
day sometimes drags into the late afternoon, as there is no Idiot box, to tune into, no wifi to check mails and
mobiles don’t have signals in the strongly built 250year old house. This house
is chilly inside but has a quaint warm feeling of all the years that have
passed . I never cease to wonder at how many children ,young couples ,old
grandparents must have lived here enjoyed ,felt happy, sad ,elated
sometimes , depressed sometimes, in this same house . It has definitely
acquired a quality, a character of its own and inspite of the fact that I’ve
not met anyone who lived here I have a strange connect to this house.
Come evening the street comes to
life slowly gently with some veshti clad gentlemen walking with a purpose…..ladies
going with bags ,the vegetable vendors in the streets opening their fare and a general sense of living in a community
hits one only now. The UPwala starts making his chapathis in his small cart and
business is brisk….There is also a samosa vendor churning out freshly made
samosas and the smell that wafts down is inviting, in between all this, are
vegetable vendors spreading their
roughly hewn baskets full of garden vegetables , some grown on the banks
of Cauvery river vegetables like raw banana, banana stems, flowers, …….the yam variety found here is
amazing.
The entire smalltime town is
abuzz with activity 24 hours a day on Vailunta ekadesi day . As we live on one of the inner
streets we saw people walk by all day long. The beautiful part of this is it is
celebrated by everyone, by wearing new silk sarees ,many young married women in
the traditional nine yards trying to walk carefully, the people from the villages near and far all
here In their Sunday best .but all alike awake at 1 pm rushing to stand in a
queue, to have a dharshan of Moolavar Ranganatha…..and to walk through the
famed Paramapada Vasal.
The local women however know
where to go ,so they decide to go in to what is called the Manal Veli ,a open
expanse of sand where the Utsavar is waiting and once the crowd comes in He
goes towards them and suddenly towards someone else. It seems as if He s
floating on the sea of heads there..
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