A visit to this small village promised to be very different. Hitherto,we had visited Srirangam and felt that we were away from the hustle and bustle of a city and I had recorded that life in Srirangam was far removed from a busy city life.
But Azhwar Thirunagari proved to be very different.
We alighted in SriVaikuntaam from Thiruchendur Express at 7 am on 29th .the small village station was deserted except for another sleepy family walking out.,and the only sleepy guard waved a green flag lazily.
We found an auto man who was very polite, helpful and informative too.It started out to be a hot day,as we rode the auto to Alwar (as it is called). Tamaraaparani river flowed alongside ,almost dry. A small trickle ran like a silver line in the middle with green thorny bushes on all sides .
The Ahobila Mutt , where we would stay for the next ten days,is situated right on the main road to Thiruchendur from Tirunelveli.
The mutt is very neatly maintaained with 3 rooms on the ground floor with Ac ,but toilets at the rear end,and 6 rooms on the first floor with attached toilet fecilities.
The ever humble adiyen Ramanuja Dasa acts as the caretaker and does much more than just that.He offers to get idlis for us .
He bought us breakfast….soft idli and chutney from Mangai mami nearby who did this as a small business.
He even escorted us to the river and showed us where to dip.he was very insistent that we go to a particular spot to bathe in the river.
He always proclaims that he is doing kainkaryam only.
Breakfast, bath achieved we just had to enter the opposite building, across the road which is Ahobilamutt (old) sannidhi.
Nammalwar visits here as today is the first day of vaikasi utsavam.and much to our surprise Rangarajaan was given the mariyadhaai from ALWAR, as we were the only representatives of Ahobilla mutt.
We spent a good half hour in Alwars company and we were thrilled to be welcomed thus by Alwar ,with puliyodharai,sweet boondi as welcome dishes.
We went into the small village and into the big temple where Aaadhipiran resides. The temple has beautiful stone sculptures and pillars. Utsavar is Paolindhu Nindra Piran with 5 consorts, and Moolaavar is Adhipiran with two consorts. Adhipiran satnds huge and imposing.
The more important feature in this kovil is the 5000 year old tamarind tree which is alive till today called Urangapuli.
The importance is also for the Nammalwar here who is also 5000 years old. The tree is said to be protecting this Alwars sannidhi like Adiseshsn and the local lore says that Nammalwar is Ramar of yore and the tree is Lakshmnan , which is the reson for tree to have spread its 5 branches over the sannidhi.
The AAndaavan Ashram on the same main road does Thadhiyaaradhaanai during the festival days. Lunch is served from 11am to 1pm and dinner from 7...9pm. Very tasty simple food.There are about 4 old men who have come in from different places to just cook and serve here.This is Kainkaryaam. This Ashram also has rooms Ac and non Ac.
Alwarthirunagari is a sleepy village where no one is a morning person..
During the 10 day utsavams. Morning utsavams or temple rituals are usually delayed and the whole village takes it easy.
Evening saw us waiting outside Adhipiran sannidhi….and it was opened at 5.30. Adhipiran...moolavar stands tall and magnificent, with his 2 consorts, Adhinayagi and Thirukurugoornayaki.
Utsavar Polinthu Ninrapiran, with 5 of his consorts...Sridevi,Bhoodevi.Adhinayaki,neela devi, Thirukurugoornayaki.
The temple abounds in beautiful ,intricately carved pillars each boasting of at least 4, 5 figures.
The temple emanates a very old feeling (if a feel can be felt) an dc the uranga puli a dds to the ancient feel as we feel every green leaf whispering “azhware Azhware”.
Everyone in this small village talks of Alwar and no one else is important.
First day Thirumanjanam for Azhwar is held at Thirukurungudi mutt the Thirukurungudi jeer is honoured and at around 6pm The Jeer does a Pattina pravesam ,seated in his pallakku.We had the bagyam of doing a Haraathi for him and KR had the bagyam if doing the chamaram for the Jeer.
Around 10:30pm, Azhwar starts in a poooppallakku from Thirukurungudi mutt here and goes around veedhi to reach his abode inside temple.
The above is when red Mathaappoo is lit.
For the first 3 days it is Ahobilaa Mutt Jeers Ubayam. The 4th,5th and 6th day festivals are Thirukurungudi jeers ubaayams.
Day 3
Ramanuja chaturvedi mangalam
Ramanuja or better known here as Bavishyadhacahar…...The seers coming was forecast 5000 years ago on the bank's of Tamraparani river.
This Thirumeni made of copper is swayambu… is made out of water/
Copper content is high in this river.
Here we sat and recited the nootrandhadhi.
As we sat reciting the Nootrandhahi, a senior citizen archagar kindly switched on the fan for us.
Ramanujar, Moolavar here has a “Thalappagai” ( Prapannapagai) , sits under a Adisesha and the utsavar ( Bhavishyadacharyar) wears white vastram .
There is no Ramanujar vigraham inside Adinathan temple and instead at the back of this temple, Ramanuja Chaturvedi mangalam is formed around Bavishyadacharyar temple.
This night , there is “Thirupulliamara vahanam” for Nammazhwar
The Thirupuli Vahanam is very highly regarded by the locaals as they speak of it as a very revered sight .One mami explained that the Alwar grants every wish of his followers from this Vahanam.
All the street houses ( 8 of them) do a big kolam every evening and morning just before the Alwar ellufies. The streets get busy on the 4th day evening preparing for the big 5th day.
Umbrellas open up with plastic wares,toys and ice-pops. Everyone is dressed in their best.Little girls run around with long plaits and kunjslams, Mamis buy fresh flowers and adorn themselves nicely.
Day 5 Onbadu Garuda Sevai.
Early morning goshti theertham, sri ramanujam at Nammazhwar sannidhi.
Then had dharshan of Emberumanar Jeer. very pleasant countenance, blessed in a very appropriate way. With little advice and plenty of blessings.
From there to koil. Alwar sannidhi is fairly crowded.Thirukurungudi jeer ellufies and then theertham, satari (sriRamanujam) and prasadam only for men.
Pilinthu Ninra Piran sevai
Waiting for 9 perumals to ellufy
Garuda vahanam from nava thirupathi started arriving and taking positions
Slowly nava thirupathi perumals (utsavars) arrive and take positions in different mandapams inside Adinathan temple.
Thirumanjnam for all utsavars started simultaneously and we ran from one mandapam to other trying to have glimpse of the thirumanjanam , which we could, despite the crowd.
Then off to Mylapore Srinivasa Iyengar thadhiyaradhanam at 7 pm, Kadambam and thayir sadam
We stayed in and around temple listening to discourses by Kidambi Narayanan, ThenThiripperai Aravindalochanan swamy and Velukkudi swamy.
At around midnight Nammalwar came out on Hamsa vahanam
And the huge temple doors were closed.
When they opened after half hour the first perumal came out on Garuda….the 9 garuda sevai began..
Thereafter it was the same for each Perumal...They stood in a line to get a verse from Nammalwar.
And the Arayar sang the pasuram for that perumaal and that Perumal came out very happy.
Night 5 / Day 6
It was 2.30am by the time all the 9 Garuda Vahanam came one after the other on the dark but crowded roads, around the koil with Nammazhwar in Hamsavahanam and Madurakavigal in Danthakurisil.( ivory chair)
It was a beautiful sight to see huge garuda vahanam rolling out in line .
Nammalwar comes 4th in the middle. Madhurakavi Alwar comes last.
All Garuda sevai go round all the streets around the temple. It was pitch dark and the Garuda sevais looked divine with only the petromax lights.
It was around 6 am by the time they came back into the temple and immediately the preparatory work for Navatirupathy perumaals return began.
We slept for 3 hours and rushed back to find most of the people there already.
This event is very aptly called Piriya vidai (Tearful farewell.)
Nammalwar waits to see off each Perumal, especially Devarpiran whom he has adopted as his father and mother.
Nammalwar waits to see Devarpiran off till the end of the sannidhi street.
It is with a heavy heart that Nammalwar goes back into his Sannindhi in Adinathan temple ...
The steps very slow and reluctant and follows polindhuninrapiran, leads the way very slowly and Nammalwar bid farewell to all his favourite pirans.
Once in, all his baktha go back to a well needed rest.
Evening Nammazhwar comes to the mandapam near by for Thirumanjnam. The Kuravankondai after this is very cute.
We get the Eeera vadai and wait for Yanai vahanam after the Thiruvaimozhi goshti.
My constant companion (above ) during goshti..
Day 7
Serthi thirumanjanam
Emberumanar and Nammalwar in Eka Simha sanam at Ramanujar Sannidhi.
The thirumanjanam lasted for 20 minutes
Everyone is given scented oil by Arayar and manja kappu & sandanam by archakar.
After the thirumanjanam...Eeera vaadai is given to all devotees
Eeera vaadai
Is the cloth worn by Azhwar , dipped in thirumanjanam water and wrung to everyone’s hands as theertham.
After this Thiruvaimozhi recital starts. 7m pathu 100 songs
Day 8
Me and Rangaji took abus to Thiruvenparisaaram ( Thirupathysaaram) , one of the 108 Divyadesams, near Nagarkoil. The journey was for about two hours . There the weather was lovely cool with Saaral. There we had good darshan of Thiruvazhmarbhan and nearby, about three minutes walk , Udayanangai’s ( Azhwars mother’s ) birth place.
Enroute to Nagarkoil, we saw , plenty of wind mills in operation.
ThiruTher, Day 9
There was Thirumanjanam for azhwar at various placed every day, during this ten day festival. The events at Uthiradimutt.
Some observations of my last few days
Alwar...Girl children are very smart hereabouts.as also manos...Who rule the roost,i n the house...All of them gol arnold mobile but have the entire gamut of numbers from archakar ,auto drivers,grocery store boy,electrician and with th ar small palm sizes old mobile they run a pretty efficient life.
I've seen young girls of 6 / 7do the kolam on the road .
Young girls who passed the 10th cry over a 9.8 score but boys who score 9.4 play happily.
Women who run a coffee shop are quick to do their math.
Women always wear thick gold chains and wear another necklace over the saree and many women of all ages wear Khazana type bangles..Which are thick and intricately designed.
Few days, in the evening, there are upanyasams by popular upanyasakars at Andal temple.
Thadiyar adhanai at the Andavan Ashramam is a welcome change as we are served dhudyonnam…..Which is to die for.
Rooms are available at Rs 150/- per day.dormitory accommodation.
and the Ashram is very clean.
The Ahobilamutt has rooms let out at Rs 600/- per day AC with toilet at the back and AC rooms on the first floor with attached toilets for Rs 800/- perday
Prasanna is the manager of Ahobilamutt and A very humble Ramanuja Dasan takes care, waiting to help gets coffee, idli and he has a very soft disposition. And is polite always.
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