Day 0 Pune
As the day to our Pandharpur trip neared our expectations went up and we prepared ourselves to sing bajans and got generally excited.
We planned to travel with Tirthayatra tour operators
( www.tirthayatra.org ) who to our knowledge have been highly satisfactory. While others joined the tour on Nov 24th, Six of us from Chennai left for Pune on 23rd Nov itself. Arriving in Pune we checked into the service apartment near the airport and had good lunch ( fried bindhi, chappathis, panneer and curd ) and we then set out to sightseeing Pune.
( www.tirthayatra.org ) who to our knowledge have been highly satisfactory. While others joined the tour on Nov 24th, Six of us from Chennai left for Pune on 23rd Nov itself. Arriving in Pune we checked into the service apartment near the airport and had good lunch ( fried bindhi, chappathis, panneer and curd ) and we then set out to sightseeing Pune.
Our first stop was ShaniwarWada which was just some walls and a few dilapidated buildings but with a nice garden built by the Peshwas of Maharashtra.
It used to be 7 stories high which was demolished by the invaders.
 |
At Shaniwarwada |
 |
| Pond in Shaniwarwada |
 |
| Few 'Yatris' at Shaniwarwada |
 |
| The remains of 7 storied building |
The guavas sold outside were a welcome relief and we set out to see the Kelkar museum. Raja Dinkar Kelkar, who as one man has collected exquisite items in wood, metals ,old pieces of garments and beautiful musical instruments made of different materials.
This done , with a lot of time on hand we walked to Lakshmi road to buy sarees. We were told to target Dulhan saree bazar but it turned out to be a big disappointment. So walking further we hit upon a Pune saree centre and bought ourselves some sarees and by this time our niece Suniti joined us. She took us to a Maharashtrian Brahmin thali place for dinner,Hotel Shreyas. The thali was very typically Marathi in nature and we had the usal/missal stuff, famous khadi, pitla, masala pooris with srikant, basundhi, bholi etc.,
Back at the hotel we played a good card game of kanasta until we could keep our eyes open no more and slept fitfully.
Next morning we had oothappam and bread sandwiches for breakfast and headed out to the airport to meet and join the tour.
Pandhari che Bhootha Mothe
Day 1 - Pandharpur
The morning saw us all ready for the Vittala magic, hence we set out to Pune airport and lo behold ! met all our old friends there ...Veeraraghavan mama and Shobana mami, Varadarajan Sir,Krishna AgraniDasa CEO of Tirthayatra ,Aruna Balachandran Aunty and Rohini aunty . Instantly we became friends with the other yatris and as we boarded the AC bus which was to take us around for the next six days.
As our tour director Agrani Dasa introduced himself he also initiated the fondly remembered Nrisimha Kirtan. We all joined in and would sing it everyday.
 |
| Nrisimha keerthan |
Breakfast was served on the way and after a
couple of Bio stops we reached Pandharpur
and checked into Hotel Prabhu Residency
around 2pm.
couple of Bio stops we reached Pandharpur
and checked into Hotel Prabhu Residency
around 2pm.
As we checked into our rooms, the cooks
who came along with us got busy making
lunch for us. Around 3 pm we were served
hot lunch with nothing less than rasam,
vegetable, curd, pickle and appalam.
Fully satiated and after some rest, in the
evening around 6pm, we all went along with
Agrani Dasa to have darshan of Vittala who
stood patiently waiting, knowing fully well
that this group of yatris would come. We
stood in the queue, going up and down in
specially built "queue" staircases and as we
stood in a long winding queue we sang
bajans and danced for bajans too.
evening around 6pm, we all went along with
Agrani Dasa to have darshan of Vittala who
stood patiently waiting, knowing fully well
that this group of yatris would come. We
stood in the queue, going up and down in
specially built "queue" staircases and as we
stood in a long winding queue we sang
bajans and danced for bajans too.
This Panduranga Vittala who shines like a
thousand Suns stood waiting for his Bakthas.
thousand Suns stood waiting for his Bakthas.
Many of us expected the streets to be full of
"varkaris" singing and dancing bhajans but
Alas! The streets were dusty and
disappointing.
"varkaris" singing and dancing bhajans but
Alas! The streets were dusty and
disappointing.
Eager to have the padha-Sparsha of Vittala,
we joined a mile long "Q" which meandered
in and around the temple itself, finally taking
us into the Sanctum.
we joined a mile long "Q" which meandered
in and around the temple itself, finally taking
us into the Sanctum.
 |
| Pandhapur Temple |
 |
| Another view of temple |
we were in the queue....and this was so
infectious that everyone in our group joined
in and with a little bit of dancing we
were involved in singing Vittala Nama and
suddenly found ourselves in His Holy
Presence. The padha-sparsha was so
emotion ridden and spiritually uplifting that
many of us were moved to tears.
We touched literally the feet of Rukmayi,
Radharani, Radhika and came into a huge
hall builtof wooden roof ( ceiling ). A group
of "varkaris" were already sitting to sing
bajans with Dolaks and the atmosphere was very
serene and uplifting.
Radharani, Radhika and came into a huge
hall builtof wooden roof ( ceiling ). A group
of "varkaris" were already sitting to sing
bajans with Dolaks and the atmosphere was very
serene and uplifting.
Just inside this temple, we reached "Anand
Sthal", a place where we are supposed to
let go of all inhibitions and dance like a child.
We all danced, held hands and sang in gay
abandon, feeling fresh energy rush into our
blood.Thus is the magic of Vittala's Nama.
Sthal", a place where we are supposed to
let go of all inhibitions and dance like a child.
We all danced, held hands and sang in gay
abandon, feeling fresh energy rush into our
blood.Thus is the magic of Vittala's Nama.
The roads were cramped but a few shops
stacked dry raisins and pedas .We did a little
raisin shopping ,raisin tasting and some
peda tasting too.
Back at the hotel PrabhuResidency, the
cooks had shuffled up a good dinner of hot
rice, rasam, chapathis, subji, curd and
pickles.
cooks had shuffled up a good dinner of hot
rice, rasam, chapathis, subji, curd and
pickles.
Day 2 Nira Narsingpur
Morning saw us all looking for coffee/tea and
getting ready very early.
Drove on to NiraNarasingapur, about 90
minutes drive. Despite bad roads ,the ride
was well worth it because this is an ancient
temple built by Prahalada.
minutes drive. Despite bad roads ,the ride
was well worth it because this is an ancient
temple built by Prahalada.
Lord Nrisimha is very ancient and looks worn
out.There is a wooden Garuda who stands
majestically with Belgium glasses inlaid
holding snakes looking very protective.
 |
| Nira Narsingpur |
 |
| At Nira Narsingpur |
 |
| Beautiful Garuda |
We went to see the sangamam of the rivers
Nira and Bhima in Niranarasingapur. Kinds
of Shanthi poojas were being conducted and
this Nrisimha is considered very powerful.
Bhima river becomes Chandrabagh river in
Pandharpur.
Nira and Bhima in Niranarasingapur. Kinds
of Shanthi poojas were being conducted and
this Nrisimha is considered very powerful.
Bhima river becomes Chandrabagh river in
Pandharpur.
From here drove back to Pandarpur to have
a dip in the Chandrabagha river.
a dip in the Chandrabagha river.
 |
| Chandrabagha river |
On the way back to Pandharpur, our tour
director, the ever charming Krishna Agrani
Dasa recounted the Sthala purana of
Pundalika and Vittal. A little about that
here.
director, the ever charming Krishna Agrani
Dasa recounted the Sthala purana of
Pundalika and Vittal. A little about that
here.
Rukmini,Lord Krishna's wife found him being
intimate with his girlfriend Radha and
became very upset. She walked off in a huff
to a place called Kholapur where she
remained in a penance. Meanwhile Krishna
missing his wife came looking for her and
incidentally visited his friend Pundalika.
intimate with his girlfriend Radha and
became very upset. She walked off in a huff
to a place called Kholapur where she
remained in a penance. Meanwhile Krishna
missing his wife came looking for her and
incidentally visited his friend Pundalika.
Pundalika and his wife did not care much for
his aged parents' well being.Once his parents
left for Kashi Yatra by foot as they could not
afford any other means .
his aged parents' well being.Once his parents
left for Kashi Yatra by foot as they could not
afford any other means .
Meanwhile Pundalika's wife , also demanded
to visit Kasi and he arranged for her to go
there on horseback. En-route they stopped at
an Ashram of Kukuta Muni and rested.As they
rested, Pundalika noticed three old dirty
looking ladies go in and clean the ashram and
as they went out they had transformed into
beautiful ladies and when asked they told
Pundalika that this seva or service
was so great that all their sins got washed
away.
They were none other than rivers Ganga,
Yamuna and Saraswathy.
 |
| Pundalika temple |
Intrigued by this Pundalika approached this
Muni and asked him what is the utmost
service to which this Muni replied that
service unto one’s parents is service to God.
Struck by this Pundalika returned enlightened
and started serving his old parents.
In Pandharpur as he served his parents
Vittala wanted to test him and visited him
calling him out to play and interact with him.
A SkandaPurana Sloka says that there was a
bright light, the power of thousand Suns
behind Pundalika as Vittala stood waiting. But
an enlightened Pundalika threw a brick at
Vittala and said "stand on this my friend...
I’ll attend to you after I’m done with my
parents ‘seva". The Lord Vittalla is still
waiting on these bricks as there are many
Pundalikas even now.
Vittala wanted to test him and visited him
calling him out to play and interact with him.
A SkandaPurana Sloka says that there was a
bright light, the power of thousand Suns
behind Pundalika as Vittala stood waiting. But
an enlightened Pundalika threw a brick at
Vittala and said "stand on this my friend...
I’ll attend to you after I’m done with my
parents ‘seva". The Lord Vittalla is still
waiting on these bricks as there are many
Pundalikas even now.
We visited the temple of Pundalika and that
of his parents situated on the other bank of
Chandrabagha after visiting a place called
Vishnupada temple. It is here that Sage
Narada was cursed by Rukmini {when
Narada informed her that Lord was seen
playing with Gopalas(Cow herds) but she
could not find anyone.... one of Krishna's
leeelais } to be under water for half the year
and for the rest of the year , to be above
the water.
of his parents situated on the other bank of
Chandrabagha after visiting a place called
Vishnupada temple. It is here that Sage
Narada was cursed by Rukmini {when
Narada informed her that Lord was seen
playing with Gopalas(Cow herds) but she
could not find anyone.... one of Krishna's
leeelais } to be under water for half the year
and for the rest of the year , to be above
the water.
Many are the Leela’s performed by the Lord
here. The Chandrabaga river is as holy as
Ganga and runs full for half a year and dry
for the other half. The boat ride to see
Vishnu padha (also known as Dakshina gaya
where many perform pithru karyas ) was
excellent and beautiful.
We went round the Immersed temple for
Narada and saw part of his idol.
here. The Chandrabaga river is as holy as
Ganga and runs full for half a year and dry
for the other half. The boat ride to see
Vishnu padha (also known as Dakshina gaya
where many perform pithru karyas ) was
excellent and beautiful.
 |
| Dakshin Gaya/Vishnupada |
We went round the Immersed temple for
Narada and saw part of his idol.
 |
| Narada immersed position |
Returned to hotel to have lunch,rested till
evening.
evening.
In the evening went to a nearby Krishna
temple , Then to another Vittobha temple
who is considered Anna ( elder brother) to
Vittala.
temple , Then to another Vittobha temple
who is considered Anna ( elder brother) to
Vittala.
Then on to ,Namdev Mukhtisthal, in front of
Vittala temple where he went to moksha with
his sthoola sharira along with 14 of his
relatives who were present with him, then.
Vittala temple where he went to moksha with
his sthoola sharira along with 14 of his
relatives who were present with him, then.
After that we had mukha Darshana of Vittala.
Bought kishmish ate peda shopped for cottons
sarees and salwar materials.
Day3 Kholapur
Left Pandharpur at 5am to reach Kholapur at
about 11:30am. The Nrisimha Kirtan early
morning was literally an uplifting experience.
We also chanted the Vishnu Sahasranamam.
about 11:30am. The Nrisimha Kirtan early
morning was literally an uplifting experience.
We also chanted the Vishnu Sahasranamam.
There is a story that this is one of the shakti
peet where Shakti's eyes fell. There are idols
of Kali, Saraswati and Lakshmi in this temple.
peet where Shakti's eyes fell. There are idols
of Kali, Saraswati and Lakshmi in this temple.
Had special abhisheka for small Utsava
Moorthy. The priest did sanklapa of all yatris.
Had good Dharshan of Mahalakshmi who
grants every boon to her Bakthas.
Had lunch inside koil in a garden area.
Moorthy. The priest did sanklapa of all yatris.
Had good Dharshan of Mahalakshmi who
grants every boon to her Bakthas.
Had lunch inside koil in a garden area.
Had sugar cane juice , bought Kholapur
chappals, drove to Pune for about 5 hours
and reached around 8:00pm and checked
into hotel Treebo in Pune for a night.
Driver of our bus drove ever so slowly and so casually seated with his one leg folded but to his credit he drove us all six days with no untoward incident and some of the roads were “no roads at all” .
Day 4 BhimaShankar
Left around 8am, after breakfast and coffee, to BhimaShankar which is in the valley of Sahayadri hills and one of the 12 Jyotirlingams . This place where Bhima, the giant son of Kumbhakarna fought Lord Shiva aka Shankar and got a boon that this place be called after his name. BhimaShankar is very beautifully located in the laps of The Sahaydri hills. There is a very pleasant nip in the air.
Had a good darshan of BhimShankar, after waiting in the serpentine queue for about an hour. While climbing back the steps to reach our bus, from one of the plenty of shops selling fresh Palgova kept neatly covered with lids. Bought peda and palgova and guava.
From BhimaShankar to Nasik in the slowest speed possible.
Checked into treebo Studio in Nasik. Slept fitfully , had hot rasam,curd and Aloo sabji and thankfully woke up late had hot water bath.
I have to say this for the cooks brought along by the Tirthayatra team, they were simply awesome cooking up hot meals in a jiffy, literally and always serving with a smile and everyday was a new menu.
Day 5
Thrayambakeshwar, Nasik, Panchavati and Tapovan
Thrayambakeshwar, Nasik, Panchavati and Tapovan
We had wonderful benne dosa and sambar
chutney for breakfast and took vada pav
with us on the bus and had it on our way
back.
Reached Thrayambakeshawar. Lord Shiva
resides here in JyotirLinga form and has
three eyes. This is at the foothills of the
birthplace of River Godhavari and there
is a big pond here which is the 2nd source of
Godavari river much like thala Cauvery.
resides here in JyotirLinga form and has
three eyes. This is at the foothills of the
birthplace of River Godhavari and there
is a big pond here which is the 2nd source of
Godavari river much like thala Cauvery.
Then we drove to Panchavati and around
noon we had darshan at Kala ram temple
where three idols of Lord Rama, Sita and
Lakshmana which were found in three
different spots nearby.
noon we had darshan at Kala ram temple
where three idols of Lord Rama, Sita and
Lakshmana which were found in three
different spots nearby.
Sita gufa (cave) is here ,a group of caves
where Sita stayed protected against nature’s
forces. We slid through floors below ground level, as smooth as butter and under the ground we found it cool and idols of Rama, Sita and Lakshmana are worshipped inside the cave.
Panchavati had a good display of dry fruits and lot of raisins got sold for the grateful shopkeeper. Also we purchased iron kadai, fancy bags too.
where Sita stayed protected against nature’s
forces. We slid through floors below ground level, as smooth as butter and under the ground we found it cool and idols of Rama, Sita and Lakshmana are worshipped inside the cave.
Panchavati had a good display of dry fruits and lot of raisins got sold for the grateful shopkeeper. Also we purchased iron kadai, fancy bags too.
Panchavati ( Five banyan trees) is a group of 5 trees which offered a shade for Rama, Lakshmana and Sita
.
After that we reached Tapovana, ( In Dhandakaranya), a place nearby, where Sita and Rama stayed during their Vanavasya. Here the rivers Kapila and Godhavari meet. There are also five water ponds (Kundam) here.. Rama kundam Brahma kundam, Sita kundam, Agni kundam, and Shiva kundam.
This is where Lakshmana cut Shoorpanaka's nose and hence the name Nasik.
This is where Lakshmana cut Shoorpanaka's nose and hence the name Nasik.
 |
| Shoorpanaka "Nasik" cutting |
We had kulfi from an ice box which tasted heavenly and also had sugar cane juice .
Back to hotel treebo fora wonderful lunch of vangi bath, holige, puri Sagu,cabbage palya , shantige, murungakka sambar and majjige .( Butter milk).
In the evening, Meera and self went walking
around and around the treebo hotel to work away all
that food.
around and around the treebo hotel to work away all
that food.
Day 6 Grishneshwar and Ellora
Left at 5am after having hot water bath and
coffee in the room and proceeded to
Grishneshwar or also fondly called
Gushmeshwar, also the 12th Jyotirlingam
and had a quick darshan . Here Mobiles are
not allowed.
coffee in the room and proceeded to
Grishneshwar or also fondly called
Gushmeshwar, also the 12th Jyotirlingam
and had a quick darshan . Here Mobiles are
not allowed.
Bought and ate guavas that tasted out of the
world and off to Ellora caves which are about
half an hour away.
world and off to Ellora caves which are about
half an hour away.
Ellora.....Were dumbstruck by the magnitude
of carvings
Oh! What a place to see , the kailasnath
temple ( Cave 16), the buddist temple
( cave 10).
of carvings
Oh! What a place to see , the kailasnath
temple ( Cave 16), the buddist temple
( cave 10).
Click the following links to see the photos
and videos of Kailasnath temple and cave 10.
and videos of Kailasnath temple and cave 10.
We left for Pune around 12:30pm ,had lunch enroute and reached ShaniSignapur,a place where there is a temple for Lord Shani and here few shops and houses do not have doors at all and always they are open.
We were told that the banks there have no doors and no lockers.
In the temple of Lord Shani, here,one huge black stone standing in the open is worshipped as Lord Shani with oil pouring on the idol from a pot above
(pumped through motor) and the place is cleaned with water very frequently.It is said that the branch of a tree which grows over the black stone always gets burnt every time, it nears this stone.
This place is considered very very powerful the locals told us that this Bagwan does not tolerate theft or cheating so houses and shops do not need to have doors.The God has a tight reign over these people.We reached Pune airport around 8:30pm ,
had dinner at airport hotel and reached
Chennai around 1:30am.
The trip was in many ways a bonding
between strange people,a way to coexist for
6 days adjusting and giving in and
understanding each other's needs and was
very enlightening for most of us. The concern
that each person showed was outstanding
and very comforting.
between strange people,a way to coexist for
6 days adjusting and giving in and
understanding each other's needs and was
very enlightening for most of us. The concern
that each person showed was outstanding
and very comforting.
We played games in the bus which involved
everyone ,when it was time to eat we shared
all our snacks,when it was time we slept and
sang together.
It has been a great journey wherein we made
life friends.
Our sincere thanks to all yatris of the tour
for sharing the photos and videos.
for sharing the photos and videos.
Beautifully written and a very accurate account, Great job
ReplyDeleteSuper. Very well narrated. Makes one feel like going on this trip asap. Thanks vasu
ReplyDeleteBeautifully documented in detail! Thanks.
ReplyDelete